Welcome to the KK2.0 guide contained on this page is all the information we can find to help get you up and running or tuning you KK2 flight controller. The one problem with this hobby is that information is spead through the web in many forums and groups. Further to that its had to understand what is good advice and what is compleate rubbish. The information here has been used and tested to make sure that only quality infomation that is worth reading is consilidated here along with our own findings along the way.
Designed by the Grand father of the KK revolution, Rolf R Bakke. The KK2.0 is the evolution of the first generation KK flight control boards. The KK2.0 was engineered from the ground up to bring multi-rotor flight to everyone, not just the experts. The LCD screen and built in software makes install and setup easier than ever. A host of multi-rotor craft types are pre-installed. simply select your craft type, check motor layout/propeller direction, calibrate your s and radio and your ready to go! all of which is done with easy to follow on screen prompts!
The original KK gyro system has been updated to an incredibly sensitive dual chip 3 Axis gyro and single chip 3 axis accelerometer system making this the most stable KK board ever and allowing for the addition of an Auto-level function. At the heart of the KK2.0 is an Atmel Mega324PA 8-bit AVR RISC-based microcontroller with 32k of memory. An additional 2 motor output channels have been added to the KK2.0 allowing for a total of 8 motors to be controlled (Octocopter). A handy Piezo buzzer is also included with the board for audio warning when activating and deactivating the board.
Before trying to tune your KK2 it is worth watching the below video so you can understand the effects that your ajustments will have on your model.
And this one.
Set the gains and limits to the following values:
Roll/Pitch P-gain: 30 (For a small 25cm size set to 20) Roll/Pitch P-limit: 100 Roll/Pitch I-gain: 0 Roll/Pitch I-limit: 20
Yaw P-gain: 50 Yaw P-limit: 20 Yaw I-gain: 0 Yaw I-limit: 10
Now, Increase Roll/Pitch P-gain by 10 (5 or less for a small aircraft) at a time, and test your aircraft response by hovering and move the left stick in short and fast movements.
As you increase the gain you will notice:
1: The aircraft reacts faster and feels more connected to the stick movement and wander less on its own.
2: The aircraft may oscillate for a short time. Usually a few oscillations, but may be more if gain is high. If it oscillates continually the gain is too high.
3: The aircraft may be harder to land, it bounces back when touching down.
4: The aircraft may climb.
When the aircraft has a good response and does not oscillate or climb when testing, P-gain is good.
1: Trim it level.
2: Fly fast forward and center the stick.
If it level itself, increase I-gain. If it stays in attitude, I-gain is good.
Alternatively setting I gain to 50-100% of P-gain does the trick.
Increase Yaw P-gain by 10 (5 or less for a small aircraft) at a time, and test your aircraft response by hovering and move the Yaw control stick until it have
yawed about a quarter of a circle, and then center it.
As you increase the gain you will notice:
1: The aircraft start and stops faster.
2: The aircraft overshoots less.
3: The aircraft may start to climb or descend.
When the aircraft has a good response, has a minimum of overshoot and does not climb or descend, P-gain is good.
Alternatively, set it to 100% of Roll/Pitch P-gain
Increase Yaw I-gain by 10 (5 or less for a small aircraft) at a time, do the same test as above.
When the aircraft overshoots even less, I-gain is good.
Alternatively, set it to 100% of Yaw P-gain.
If you have a small and not dangerous aircraft, you can disturb it around the yaw-axis and see if it returns. increase if not.
It is generally good to keep the gain values in the low range. Excessive gain may introduce vibration and control issues.
Q: How does the low voltage alarm work? I can not see any connections for input V?
A: The Battery voltage input is the unpopulated hole to the left of the yellow component. Connect a cable from battery+ to this hole. The ground return is through Output #1's ground wire. Go to "Misc. Settings", "Alarm 1/10 volts:" to set the threshold. It is in 1/10 volts, so 10.5V is entered as "105". The LVC is only active when battery voltage is below the limit. When it goes above, it stops. Also it beeps faster the lower the voltage is below the limit.
Q: If the gyro can work on 2000 deg/sec, why not make the 2000 deg/sec as the working output? Which solder jumper need to be mod?
A: The 440 deg/sec gives a higher resolution. The jumpers is on a horizontal line below the two black chips at the top. From left to right: X, Y and Z axis. The pads already connected with a trace is 440 deg/sec. Cut this trace and connect (solder a thin wire) the center pad to the opposite pad to get 2000 deg/sec. Be careful not to short out the trace that runs in between the pads.
Q: Why is Autolevel so slow?
A: The autolevel is based only on the ACC. It takes some time before the ACC registers tilt due to the horizontal acceleration of the craft when tilting. It needs some speed to get air resistance and a force on the ACC. Therefore the autolevel works best on draggy crafts. Later I will try to implement a AHRS algorithm, which uses both ACC and gyros to get a immediate tilt angle.
Q: What are the "limit" values in "PI Editor"?
A: About the "limit" values. They set the maximum of the available motor power to be used for correction. 100 is 100%. The "I limit" value is also known as "anti wind-up" in PID theory. The limits is most important on the yaw axis. The prevent a large yaw correction from saturating the motors (giving full or no throttle), causing no control of the roll/pitch axis. The default values permit 30% ("P Limit" 20 + "I limit" 10) of the motor power to be used to yaw correction, making 70% available for the roll/pitch axis, the most important ones. You can increase "Yaw P Limit" for faster Yaw response. Note that Yaw response is also limited by the craft itself. You can increase "Roll/Pitch/Yaw I Limit" for increased heading-hold "memory", that is how far it can deviate and still return to original attitude. Too large memory can cause problems if you have a "blow out" on one of the axis, tries to correct it with opposite control input and then when the blow-out conditions disappear, the craft will try to return to an unknown attitude. Unless you know what you are doing, leave the limit values as default. Default values has no impact on The PI tuning process. Also leave the self-level "I gain" and "I limit" at zero. The I part of the self-level algorithm does not work well, this will be fixed later. (Accelerometers is too slow)
Q: Could you explain in detail how does the Height Dampening and Limit works?
A: "Height Dampening" in "Misc. settings" uses the Z accelerometer to dampen vertical movements caused by wind or tilting the craft. "Height D. Limit" Limits how much power available for dampening. Try 30 for the "Height Dampening" and 10 (10%) for "Height D. Limit".
Q: Why does my Peizo buzzer keep making a beeping noise no matter what values I put on the "Alarm 1/10" voltage settings?
A: You must connect the battery voltage input to the battery. See question 3.
Q: I accidentally adjusted the contrast such that I cannot read the screen now. Does anyone know how to do a reset to default contrast? (V2.0 Firmware V2.1 Has no ajustment for LCD contrast)
A: Turn the KK2 off and on again. push button 4 push button 3 (four times ) push button 4 push button 3 push button 4 push button 1 push button 3 (36 times) push button 4
Q: In Tricopter configuration the LCD motor layout suggests that all the motors rotate clockwise. Is that correct?
A: On a Tri any combination of CW and CCW can be used, but the best is to have one of CW or CCW and the other two in the other direction.
Q: How to reverse the yaw gyro for a tricopter?
A: Go to the "Mixer Editor" and change the channel (number to the upper right) to 4 where the yaw servo is connected. Then change the "rudder" mix value to -100.
Q: Why that nut job of a ESC calibration sequence?
A: I know that some of you will try to calibrate the ESC with the propellers on, so by requiring to hold down buttons while calibrating, you will probably let go of the buttons and cause the motors to stop when the propellers start to slice through your arms. Also this makes it impossible to leave the ESC calibration on permanently. Why two buttons? In case some buttons get stuck, it will not enter ESC calibration mode accidentally. I see some defeats this by using clothes pins to press the buttons, but I recommend getting help from a friend. Of course, if you do remove the props, use the clothes pins!